pieces you create your design. It’s like stenciling,
but without the need for support connections. Place the
Rublylith over your design and cut. Your finished film will
be transferred to the screen. Rubylith makes a very solid
block, but once again you'll need to have a steady hand.
So now we come to the emulsion process.
Using ULANO 925 WR emulsion, simply remove the small bottle.
Fill it with lukewarm water, shake and let rest for a couple
minutes. This helps remove unwanted air bubbles. Dump the
contents of the small bottle into the larger bottle of ULANO
925 WR. Stir the mixture with the supplied stick, cover
and place in a very dark area. Now that we have the mixture
ready we need to apply it to the screen. They make a screen
coater to apply the emulsion, but I didn't want to spend
the cash. Use your squeegee and pour an even amount of emulsion
on the outside of the screen. Smooth evenly over the entire
surface all the way slightly past where the frame meets
the screen. Repeat the same process again. Flip the screen
over and repeat the process one time on the well side. Carefully
place the screen vertically in a very, very dark area.
While we're waiting for the screen to dry we'll need to
make a transparency of our design. If you have a printer
at home, you can print your design using transparencies.
You'll need very black coverage on the transparency. If
you don't have a printer or it looks like crap don't despair,
Kinko's makes transparencies from your design and it's cheaper
then having a true film negative made. With our design transparency
in hand we ready to burn the image. Place the dry to the
touch screen on a flat surface with the well side down.
transparency on the screen so it looks backwards. Place
a piece of clean glass over the trans. Position the EIKO
Supreme Photo Flood 1 light bulb 12" above the screen.
Expose the emulsion to the light for 15 minutes.
Take the screen to the basement sink or out to the hose.
Run water on the screen for several minutes, massaging the
screen lightly. Repeat the process on both sides. The emulsion
should begin to break apart in the areas that were protected
by the black of the transparency. Your roommate’s
toothbrush works great to help break up the emulsion. If
the emulsion doesn't break apart right away, don't worry.
Continue to work the screen.
Take a hose and slowly increase the nozzle pressure while
you blow out the areas that have begun to break apart. You'll
need to look close and flip the screen over to remove all
the emulsion in the image area. After you've cleared the
screen, let it dry. Use block out to fill in unwanted holes.
Now return the roommates toothbrush and grab a few of their
t-shirts to practice on. I like to use grocery bags in between
the front and back of the t-shirt. This will stop bleeding
through to the opposite side. Place the shirt on a flat
area or platten, cover it with the screen well side up.
Place the ink to the side of the image area. Place your
knee on one edge and a hand on the other edge of the frame.
Now place the squeegee at a 45 degree angle and pull it
over the design. Be sure to cover and then pull the ink
from the image area to one side. Lift the screen up and
let the shirt dry to the touch. Cover with a piece of paper
and iron for 2 minutes on cotton. Fini.
method works fine for down and dirty designs, but you'll
need to do more research if you really want to print quality
stuff. Screening at home is fun and comes in handy for short
runs and design work, but don’t quit your day job.
The t-shirt biz is best left to your local pros.